Introduction:
The wines of Germany, typically sweeter-style white wines (with a few rather acidic, washed-out reds) have gotten a 'bad rap' in the United States market. The American mindset has been fixed on dry white wines, particularly Chardonnay, and the mention of any sweet wine automatically evokes an unpleasant memory of artificially-flavored 'pop wines' in the Boone's Farm mode. The fact that premium German wines (beyond Liebfraumilch) are masterfully sweetened in the most natural way with a high quality winegrape juice (sussreserve), and the fact that German wines aren't always sweet escapes the fledgling wine enthusiast all too often. But for those of us who appreciate a variety of tastes that might fit a particular moment or meal, German wines provide an exquisite alternative to the prevailing dry white wine spectrum. As a refreshing foil to foods spiced with hot peppers, these low-alcohol, fruit-filled wines have no match.
Levels of Quality
Perhaps due to the difficulty of nursing a grape harvest to full maturity in the northerly lattitudes of Germany, official quality designations for German wines relate specifically to increasing degrees of varietal ripeness (sweetness). The lowest quality wines in Germany are simply labeled as Tafelwein - Germany's forgettable 'vin ordinaire'. The next level, QBA, represents a 'quality wine from a specific region' which requires added sugar to be made into wine.Typically, the best wines of Germany are labeled as Qualitatswein mit Pradikat (QmP), which indicates a 'naturally fermented wine (no sugar added) with special attributes'. With QmP wines, degrees of vintage ripeness are qualified by German wine laws and these degrees are listed here in ascending order of fruit maturation: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese. Another term, Eiswein, is utilized to indicate an extremely overripe harvest that also was picked after being frozen on the vine. These last three designations mentioned are always associated with very sweet, botrytis-spicy, dessert-level wines, made in tiny (and expensive!) quantities. Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese are finished according to winemaker preference at varying degrees of added wine-grape juice sweetening (sussreserve). German vintners have been experimenting for years with drier styles of wine, labeled as Trocken (very dry) and Halbtrocken (semi-dry). Their efforts so far have been less than spectacular.
Grape
Types
The varietals used to make German wines are limited to a handful of vitis vinifera grape types that will grow to maturity in Germany's rather cold climate. The most noble of these is the Johannisberg Riesling, known for its ability to withstand the hardest of freezes. Wines made with Riesling are commonly very floral, with fruit reminiscent of ripe apricots or peaches. Look for the varietal name Riesling on German wine bottles to assure yourself of having purchased the finest of German wines. Other grape varietals include: Sylvaner (an undistinguished 'workhorse'grape utilized primarily in the Rheinhessen and Franken regions), Müller-Thurgau (the best of the various Riesling/Sylvaner crossbred vines, used primarily in the Rheinhessen, Rheinphalz, Nahe, and Franken regions), Ruländer (German Pinot Gris, used to make drier wines in the Baden district), and, rarely, the spicy Gewurztraminer grape.
Regions
of Production
Most German vineyards are located near the banks of several rivers found in the southwestern quadrant of the country. The Rhine River, flowing north between Germany and France, roughly defines the southernmost portion (Baden district) and the central portion (Rheinpfalz, Rheinhessen, and Rheingau) of Germany's vineyard area. The Mosel River, originating in north central France and flowing north towards the Rhine to the east of Luxembourg, defines the western branch of Germany's viticultural districts, while the Main River (another Rhine tributary) forms the eastern segment (Franken district) of Germany's prime vineyard real estate. Other tributary streams, including the Saar and the Ruwer (Mosel River), the Nahe and the Ahr (Rhine River) complete the overall geographic vineyard layout in Germany.
Summary
For the purposes of this course our tastings will focus on the Kabinett (semi-dry), Spätlese (semi-sweet), and Auslese (medium-sweet) Riesling wines of the Rhine and Mosel Rivers, with the occasional inclusion of an extraordinary dry wine or other outstanding German varietal offerings (Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, or Gewurztraminer, etc.) from various German viticultural subdistricts. Remember to try the sweeter style wines with intensely-flavored foods, like hot and spicy cuisine or any of the more piquant cheeses.
Tasting Notes:
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