The National Wine
UnClub
Newsletter
September/October 2004
Drink What You Like
As an experienced wine buyer for a fine wine and spirits operation in San Antonio, I find that I have definite opinions about the wines I try on a daily basis. Of course I'm looking for the telltale elements associated with each grape varietal represented in the world of wine; the correct balance of acids, sugars, alcohols and tannins. Is the fruit profile accurately displayed for the type of wine under consideration? Does the wine have a simple fruity aroma, or a mature confluenced smell that evidences bouquet?
All this clinical examination is important to people in the profession of wine purchasing and wine sales. Analysis means breaking the wine's wholeness into various parts and then putting them back together again (in your mind's eye of course) to understand the nature of the drink. Why does such and such wine have a coffee-like nose, or a papaya/banana fruit tropicality about it? It's fascinating to contemplate really.
But, in the reality of common usage, wine is about the simple pleasure it gives to the person who is consuming it. It either provides a tasty experience, which might be quite memorable, or not. It boils down to what you like; if you don't like the taste of the wine you're drinking, don't drink it! This advice contradicts much of what is going on in the wine trade today where wine producers and wine sellers are attempting to get us to like their wares across the board.
I have the opportunity in my role as a wine consultant to influence people on their decisions on which wine to buy, and, while it's not rocket science or a life and death matter, I know that there is still an importance attached to the enjoyment of this beverage relevant to the magnitude of the moment at hand of its usage. For example: you don't want to be disappointed with the wine you've selected on the date that leads to your engagement to be married!
The nature of what appeals to each of us in terms of our tastes changes over time naturally; we loved Kool-Aid when we were kids maybe, or we couldn't get enough Coca-Cola, whatever. As maturing adults however we find our tastes gravitating towards more complex foods and drink. We may still prefer fruity tastes or we may also lose our sweet tooth altogether and start liking more subtle flavors.
When I was 10 years of age I would turn down all foods that weren't plain hamburger meat on a white bun (unless of course the food was chocolate cake!). I then discovered mustard. Wow! What a difference! Then I started liking dill pickles with the meat, bread, and mustard. Then sliced tomatoes began to appeal. You get my drift...now I hand-mix my chopped sirloin with garlic, onions, and a touch of salsa, grill it over an open flame, and serve it with melted provolone on a wheat-berry bun slathered with, oh yes, mustard (either Creole or Dijon)!
This illustrates the nature of a maturing palate (and an enduring love of good mustard). My parents were frustrated that they couldn't get me to eat the wide variety of foods they lovingly prepared when we were kids. They needn't have worried so much! My wife and I did the same with our son (now 20 years old) and he turned out OK too. Borrows our cookware and asks advice on how to prepare certain fine dishes for his new girlfriend.
I watch the faces of people trying wine and look for their first impression of the taste of that wine. That usually is enough to know where their preferences lie. I love introducing new wines to people...WHEN they are ready. Otherwise, the first question you should hear from any good wine consultant is: "What do you like?" It makes so much sense to give a person what they prefer despite how much you may know regarding the esoterics of the subject. Who cares what you know?
I care that people enjoy their experience with wine at whatever level, knowing that if they truly like what they first taste, they will eventually want to explore the wide-ranging variety of tastes available in this field. So, whether you're a Chardonnay-lover or an ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) fan, please realize that we wine experts need to take a back seat when it comes to your preferences in taste.
Drink what you like!
Cheers! Donald W. White