The National Wine
UnClub
Blog/Newsletter
November/December 2009
Here's To Your Holiday Cheer!
As another holiday season approaches it's time for all true wine enthusiasts to consider what wines will be appropriate for our year-end celebrations with family and friends. We also might be thinking on which wines would make good gifts for the above group plus business associates. In keeping with our general value wine theme here, we'll offer our best assessment of what's new, cool, and affordable in the wine world today focusing on the red wine category in this article.
The advent of November also brings to mind the tradition of the new wine of Beaujolais, also known as Beaujolais Nouveau; a zesty little fruit-bomb of a wine known to be served at many a Thanksgiving dinner gathering. The appeal of this wine has waned over the last few years here particularly in the United States as the palate preference for more mature styles of heartier red wine have taken precedence. Also, with the high price of air freight combined with a weak dollar in Europe, Beaujolais Nouveau will demand a steep price in '09. Normal, aged Beaujolais, including the fine cru Beaujolais are a much better buy if you want this style of red.
Cru Beaujolais is the highest level of wine from this light-hearted region of France. These crus include wine from ramantic-sounding sub-districts like Fleurie (we recommend the substantial Clos de la Roilette '06), Saint Amour, Julienas, Moulin-a-Vent, and Morgon (try the lovely Jadot '05). For value, you might look for estate-bottled simple Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages AOC wines like the gorgeous Domaine Depeuble '08.
If a more serious wine is to your liking but you still wish to keep your fledgling wine enthusiast guests happy, we would suggest either a dry Rosé like a Tavel (Grenache-based) or Sancerre (100% Pinot Noir- look for the cherry-flavored Eric Louis '07). For best value you might consider the dry rosés of the south of France, particularly those of the Costieres de Nimes district just west of the Rhone River or the Cotes de Provence rosés. Spain also has some decent Grenache and Tempranillo-based rosés as well. These wines are all-purpose and can handle any turkey or ham preparation quite nicely.
Next on the list of ascending seriousness in wines would of course be the noble Pinot Noir varietal. The most challenging Pinots come from Burgundy where barnyard stink, pekoe tea tannins, and salty minerality give these wines their fascinating character. Use a Burgundy when your guests are into structured Pinots (the affordable ones come from the Cotes du Beaune or simply choose a less-costly Bourgogne Rouge from a dependable producer like the earthy '06 Champy). Softer, more friendly Pinots are a New World phenomenon, and here a whole range of Californian and Oregonian Pinots come to mind. (We recommend the Pedroncelli from the Russian River Valley and the Foris from Oregon's Rogue Valley for price-conscious buyers.) A pleasant and low cost New World style Pinot from the south of France is worth mentioning here: '06 Rare Bird - a fan favorite already.
In the mid-weight class of reds, we have the Spanish Tempranillo wines of Rioja and the Ribera del Duero in north-central Spain. Affordable Rioja does exist, with Sierra Cantabria Crianza and Campoviejo Gran Reserva leading the way, among others. And, if you want to spring for the best (cheaper than French super-premiums, by the way!) you might want to serve the monumental Remirez de Ganuza Rioja (~$72) or the CUNE Imperiale Reserva (~$60). We love the wines of Abadia Retuerta for Ribera del Duero affordability, even though these wines technically come from the adjacent Sardon del Duero region.
Also in the elegant, mid-weight class one shouldn't forget the wines of Tuscany: Chiantis in particular are nicer than ever and come at every price point (our current fav is the '05 Frescobaldi Nippozano Riserva) and, of course, the glorious '04 Brunello di Montalcinos (for great price/quality get the '04 Caparzo offering). Bordeaux also fits in the mid-weight category, and our advice for buying value Bordeaux is always to buy what is known as Petit Chateaux (non-Grand Cru status wineries) from top vintages like '00, '03, and '05. The wines perform beautifully and the price isn't too steep. We recommend highly the '05 Ch. Listran Medoc or the '05 Ch. Haut Mayne Graves here.
In the BIG reds category, you have the dramatic Californian Napa Cabs and the Aussie full-throttle Shiraz wines. Value is the norm in Australian wines and these should be considered for your holiday dinner parties or gift-giving. We like the Shiraz wines of Kangarilla Road and The Luchador for maximum affordability. Higher-end Australian Shiraz wines of note are the multiple Molly Dooker offerings and the Shirvington Shiraz. Value in Napa valley is an oxymoron but we suggest you try the lovely '04 Amici (~$42) or the astounding '05 Roberts and Rogers Howell Mountain release (~$55).
So this sums up our effort to inform you about some great value reds for this holiday season. Certainly you may wish to serve or give a more high-profile label during this time of year and we understand that this may be appropriate for the person or occasion you have in mind. Our purpose here is to help you with up-and-coming regions and labels you may not have heard of so that you are fully abreast of all the possibilities now available to you in today's marketplace.
To all our friends and family during this '09 Holiday Season:
Cheers!
Captain Vino