The National Wine
UnClub
Newsletter
January/February 2009
Wine Shop Travel
Thinking of/wishing to during the depths of winter to travel to exotic locales on faraway continents in these days of financial stricture when it seems that we must work so hard just to keep our head above water? Perhaps the travel plans will be put on hold for the moment as we sort out the economic quagmire we've stumbled into. However, we can certainly escape this consternation temporarily by visiting our favorite Thai, Indian, Mexican, or other ethnic restaurant to immerse ourselves in a cultural world that's near at hand and usually quite affordable.
The same is true when you visit your favorite wine shop where a 'wines of the world' focus is knowledgeably presented to the wine enthusiast. It's an exploration of the taste of other cultures that we're referring to here that can vicariously transport us to Europe, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, or South America. Asia may not be far behind as wines are now being produced in China and India, amongst other Asian countries.
I'm unimpressed with the new trend in wine shops like Wine Styles where the focus of store set presentation is to guide their customers to sections with signs referring to wine characteristics like Bold, Spicy, Crisp, or Fruity. In one of these sections, say Bold for instance, you might find an Italian Barolo next to a Californian Napa Valley Cabernet. While I'd say yes, it's true that both these wines are 'bold' stylistically that's where the comparison ends as the qualities of Nebbiolo-based Barolo aged in Slavonian oak ovals tastes a world apart from the fruit-driven, powerhouse Cabernet wines from Napa.
While the Wine Styles approach is fine and is helpful to some consumers who are in a hurry to select a wine for the evening (particularly if they've tasted the wine and like it) it's not the way of the true wine shop. It's a question of oversimplification taken to an extreme as a facile sales technique, but in reality it serves to 'dumb down' the emerging wine enthusiast who wishes to understand the wine's characteristics in the proper historical, cultural, climatological, and varietal context.
This doesn't mean that a bonafide wine shop operator ignores the fledgling wine consumer assuming that if the person doesn't know his/her wines then they are left alone to simply wander around the store in a dazed and confused manner trying to figure out what the right wine for dinner might be. The complexities of a well-appointed wine shop can be daunting to even the most devoted wine enthusiast because there are always new labels/new vintages that require some professional advice to understand.
A friendly guide is the answer here. Forget the 'bold' and 'fruity' wine section labeling and let your well-trained wine shop staffer direct you to the bold reds or fruity whites found in various regional sections of their wine shop. It's big fun to 'take the tour' of a fine wine shop following the lead of a capable person trained to know where these wines are to be found in the store's selection. This person will normally ask you upon arrival in their shop a question about what you would like to find. Your answer will give them the proper direction for them to start your tour. Beware the store employee who immediately takes you to their favorite wine despite your request to see something more appropriate to your desire!
The times may be difficult but that doesn't mean that we can't find some enjoyment in our daily lives. People are resilient in this regard and in fact we are all in this stew together. So we can take solace from our shared experiences, learning how to appreciate the little things of life like a glass of fine (reasonably-priced!) Spanish Rioja or Oregonian Pinot Gris. And support your local wine shop as they seek to help you discover the world's fine wine gems!
Cheers!
Donald W. White