The National Wine UnClub
Newsletter

February 2004

A New Year of Wine-ing

Well, here we are well-advanced now into the new year of 2004. '03 was, at the very least, an interesting year of events in the world at large -  which of course affects the wine world considerably. Where do we stand now in this fascinating world of wine? What are the salient issues for wine lovers in today's market? Let's examine a few points worth discussing in this regard.

Price versus Quality

Prices of all things important to everyday life always seem to go up and rarely are seen to come down or even stay at the same level. Well, the reverse was true with wine in '03. Prices have fallen considerably (with the exception of European wines due to the strength of the Euro against the American dollar).  Write this off to a world wine glut (too much production), war worries, and general economic uncertainty. Even the high and mighty wines of Napa Valley have seen decreases in retail value to an astonishing 30% or more off their pre-'01 prices.

We've spoken here before about the rise of "Two-Buck Chuck" wines which offer reasonable wine quality for dirt cheap prices. This has become a prime-time news item lately and serves to illustrate the mounting pressure on wine producers to lower their prices to maintain market share, let alone build loyal wine customers. All this leads us to think that better wines will be more affordable for the general wine consumer over the next few years... which obviously is a good thing! If the price of your favorite label seems too high, you might try buying an alternative (of which there are many) until your normal choice becomes more reasonable.

The Rise of New World Wines

Move over Bordeaux! See you later Burgundy! Watch out Tuscany! As we just mentioned, alternatives for every big name wine exist in increasingly more impressive offerings, particularly from New World regions. Take Bordeaux for instance: the classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc (with lesser contributions made by the Malbec and Petite Verdot varietals) is being produced all over winedom at this current juncture in time.

California "Meritage" is a good example of the first item in the above list, particularly new producers of this style who often offer great bargains on this wonderfully complex styling of wine. Affordable examples include the Gundlach-Bundschu Mayacamas Cuvée, the Hahn Estates Meritage, the Duckhorn 'Decoy', and the Peachy Canyon 'Para Siempre'. For other Bordeaux-like wines outside of the USA, try the profusion of Cab/Merlot blends from countries like Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand.

Matching Burgundy is a greater challenge but progress is being made towards the lofty goal of fashioning serious Pinot Noir wines that emulate the great estates of Burgundy. California has lately been foremost amongst good-value offerings of this varietal, with labels like Bouchaine, Adelaida, and Leaping Lizard providing decent Pinot at remarkably low prices. Outside of California, Oregon would come next on our list of Burgundian-style Pinot Noirs. While the quality/value ratio is less attractive here, your dollar will buy a much better Oregonian Pinot than it will buying real red Burgundy at inflated French Euro exchange rates. (Try the recent Argyle, Benton Lane, and Willamette Valley Vineyards offerings.)

Tuscan red wine means Sangiovese typically - perhaps blended with other traditional varietals or the French Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah varietals now increasingly being planted in Tuscan vineyards. These newer style blends (called Super Tuscans) are often frightfully expensive and out of reach for most daily wine consumers. Fortunately Sangiovese is now grown worldwide and can be obtained for less than the cost of a Fiat Spider downpayment!   California versions from Monte Volpe and Martin & Weyrich are good examples of the more affordable American Sangiovese wines available. Norton of Mendoza, Argentina, is also a good choice.

Grocery Store Versus Wine Shop Wine Buying

When you buy your favorite wine brand at the local grocery (or Costco for that matter) you know you're likely to get a measurably lower price than at your favorite wine shop. Buying wine this way can be quite affordable and convenient. However, wines beyond the known aren't as easy to buy in these volume discount locations. The level of help offered when making your purchase is minimal and many times biased when the consultant you're talking to is a hired gun from either the local wholesaler or the national supplier.

With the dizzying array of fine wines available in today's marketplace, it's just sensible to find a trustworthy guide who knows your taste and respects your pocketbook. This person is rarely found in the local grocery - including many upscale food-oriented operations. There are many passionate and knowledgeable wine people working in the retail trade in every market around our nation who put themselves on the line to help you in this regard (many times for very little pay). They're really not there to help you with your commodity wine purchases (although all these folks wish to handle your every wine need).

It's your decision to use this service provided by full-service wine shops in your community. You may be surprised as well by how little difference there is in price after all, particularly when you know that fewer mistakes are being made at the point of purchase and friendly customer discounts are often thrown in.

So, with these few thoughts, we push onward into a new year of fascinating wine discoveries, bouyed by the awareness that our enjoyment of this subject is a never-ending quest for tasty adventures at tableside with the company of great friends and loving family.

Cheers!

Donald W. White