February 2000
Tour de France
As some of you already know, I spent the last part of January and the first part of this February in France, exploring new vineyards and meeting new winemakers for the company I represent in San Antonio. I am always grateful for the opportunity to travel to the source for the subject I hold so dear in my heart. This trip was particularly special in that I was joining a group of my peers from around the continental United States and Hawaii to visit many of the fine French wineries represented in the States by a vinous hero of mine, importer Robert Kacher (with offices in Washington, D.C.).
'Bobby', as Kacher is affectionately known by close friends and associates, hosted this group of about fifty Americans who represented a wide cross-section of the wine industry in the United States. There were folks in the group from the retail segment (both wine shops and upscale groceries), restaurateurs, and local wholesaler/ distributors. This diverse group afforded me the welcome opportunity also to share rare insights regarding the wine business in our country with top performers at every level of the industry.
This august group gathered in Paris as the departure point for the first leg of the carefully coordinated journey we were about to embark upon, and, with a sudden surge, our high-speed TGV train pulled out of the Gare de Lyon for the historic town of Nimes in the south of France. This part of the trip was uneventful, although it did serve as a 'getting to know you' time for several new Kacher Tour participants.
Arriving in Nimes, we off-loaded our gear amidst a chilly light shower and were met by the humble wine-master himself, Bobby. Within minutes, after warm salutations, hugs, and laughter (yes, wine people are like that!) we were ushered onto the tour bus, the means of transportation we would depend on for the next 10 days. At this point, I should mention our intrepid driver, Michel, who handled this massive vehicle on some of the smallest country lanes and city byways imagineable. To him, our heartfelt thanks and appreciation is due.
Our hotel, the Imperator Concorde, is a gorgeous facility, in some respects frozen in time as you stand in the lobby with the "Hemingway Bar" entrance on the right and the antique open-grilled elevator up a short flight of stairs on the left. Yet the rooms (chambres) are quite modern (with full baths) and the tiered-seating conference room off the main lobby equals the best of such facilities in the States (albeit a good deal smaller in size). We would make the Imperator our home base for the next three days during our visit to the wine region of the Costieres de Nimes and environs.
Our first evening, after a couple of hours of rest and some brief time exploring Nimes, was spent visiting the estate of Monsieur Jean-Lin Dalle called Chateau du Campuget. After introductions, Jean told our totally bemused group of tasters a humorous historical anecdote of Chateau de Campuget regarding the time during World War II when his father warded off German patrols with his handy rifle from inside the winery building prompting the local Nazi commandant to seek a less feisty target down the road for his men to harass.
What followed was a delightful evening, beginning with a cellar tasting by candlelight of M. Dalle's elegant '98/'99 whites, a deep-colored Syrah/Grenache rosé, and the Syrah, Grenache, and Merlot blends and 100% varietal reds, all of which showed excellent merit. We proceeded to the candle-lit farmhouse for more wine and a buffet meal of poulet (chicken), charcuterie (sausages), French country bread, and ratatouille (a tomato, zucchini, and eggplant stew). The revelry lasted until nearly midnight. Needless to say, our travel-weary group was ready for those warm hotel beds that evening!
The next morning we were off again on another driving adventure further south through the marshy coastal Camargues region where the famous bulls of Spanish and French bull-fighting fame are raised. Joining us for the fun were the owners of Chateau Valcombe and Mas de Guiot, two other fine Kacher associates in this region. Our group was divided into two for a somewhat harrowing hay-ride through the angry bull-infested property of Chateau Valcombe, after which we enjoyed the lovely dry rosés of Valcombe and Mas de Guiot with a light snack of French bread, cheese and sausage.
Later that afternoon, we pulled into the Kacher estate Chateau Grand Cassagne where we enjoyed a wide array of superb French country wines, so affordable yet so well made! Of particular note was the deeply-colored, blackberry jam & coffee-scented Syrah wine called "Hippolyte". This wine easily rivals the Australian Penfold's Bin 128 Shiraz at a much lower price. The one problem is that only tiny amounts are produced, so getting this wine will prove to be a considerable challenge. Try the '98 "S" Syrah if you can't find the Hippolyte.
Back in Nimes by early evening, our group spread out in small bunches to further explore this beautiful southern French city. We were awed by the wonderfully-preserved Maison Carrée (a 2000 year old Roman Temple) in the city's center, along with the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world where bull-fighting is still a well-attended spectator sport. Some of the more athletic types in our group hiked up to the 'Tour Magne', an ancient tower that formed part of the ramparts surrounding Nimes in Roman times. Simple bistro dining was the order of the day.
The next morning, we were surprised (and delighted) to see snow falling outside our floor-to-ceiling bedroom windows. This weather is a rarity in southern France, but it made the visit here seem more intimate somehow as we bundled up for our day's adventure. Our first stop was at the Domaine des Sources, a co-op facility where our hosts, Mas de Aveylans and Domaine Canterelles finish their wine. We tasted some fabulous bargain wines here, including the deeply-rounded, chocolatey '98 Mas de Aveylans Syrah and the more subtle, berry-fruited '98 Chateau Canterelles Cabernet/Syrah blend.
These wines went perfectly with the roast mutton and mixed vegetables served to the Kacher gang later in the rustic reception room beside the winery. The cold day was forgotten as we shared a hearty country meal with good wine and good company. Alas, we were too soon herded back onto the bus for our next scheduled visit at Mas Carlot and Mas de Bressades. Both these estates produce (with Bobby Kacher's expert advice) Rhone-style whites, rosés, and reds. Both producers are having some success with Cabernet Sauvignon as well as our tasting quickly affirmed!
Another night at the bistros in Nimes and the Bar Hemingway and we were off again the next morning for one more day of Costieres de Nimes exploration; this time to the Domaine de Sant Antoine, an estate north of the city that produces serious French-style Merlot, Syrah reds and rosés. Lunch was enjoyed at the nearby Domaine Gournier where superb, fruit-rich Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Merlot is produced. Bobby made sure that we got a chance to also taste the amazing Burgundian-style '95 and '97 Chardonnays made at Toques et Clocher to the west of Nimes near the town of Limoux.
The day comes to an end at the Hotel Imperator Restaurant (l'Enclos de la Fontaine) where we meet at dinnertime with the owners of two Bordeaux estates represented by Robert Kacher Selections, Vieux Chateau Gaubert in Graves, and Chateau Calabre of the Montravel district. We start of course with whites: traditional white Graves (55% Semillon/45% Sauvignon Blanc) from Vieux Chateau Gaubert and then we taste Chateau Calabre's unique, blush-colored wine from the Sauvignon Gris grape, a rarity in France (or anywhere else for that matter!).
After another couple of excellent reserve-level white Bordeaux that matched perfectly with the seafood Brandade with black truffles appetizer and the salmon tart first course, we move on to the roast duck course with the more serious reds from these producers: the excellent '98s, the mellow '89 Vieux Chateau Gaubert, with the late-harvest, 100% Semillon Chateau Puy-Sevrain (from Chateau Calabre) as an 'in your face' Sauternes-like finisher. Wow! Where do we go from here?
The answer to that rhetorical question was answered the next morning as we headed out bright and early (too early for some in our group!) on the road north to Avignon and the famous vineyards of the French popes, Chateauneuf-du-Pape. First stop: Domaine Font de Michelle, an award-winning, top drawer producer of white and red Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. After tasting the promising '98 and '99 reds, we continued with the magnificent '95 and '89 reds. These wines are about 80% Grenache/20% other Rhone varietals blended.
Just down the road we arrive at the estate of a favorite Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer of mine, Andre Brunel. Brunel's wines epitomize power balanced by elegance which is well shown in the 'Les Cailloux' wine he makes. About 75% Grenache, the remainder of the blend is always given over primarily to the more "fresh-flavored" Mourvedre grape as opposed to the more dense Syrah. Look out for Brunel's outstanding '98 vintage, and the quality of the '99s aren't far behind!
After a fine lunch with M. Brunel which further showcased his wines, our group traveled a bit further north to Gigondas where we would check into our hotels for the evening. Most of the group stayed at Bobby Kacher's 'home away from home' in the area, a Victorian mansion transformed into a quaint hotel, called The Martinet. Others stayed at a more modern facility in nearby Vacqueyras called Le Pradet. Our evening meals with regional wine growers at the Martinet the next two evenings would prove to be quite an adventure with wines from Kacher associates of Sancerre on the upper Loire River (Clos de la Crele) and Frontonnais (Chateau Lirac) paired with the Martinet's rendering of local cuisine!
After a visit to the Gigondas producer, Yves Gras of Domaine Santa Duc, where we tried his rather powerful, Grenache-dominated range of wines, the following day we proceeded to Domaine Amourous in Vacqueras. Here the wines are similar to Gigondas, yet a bit more fruity, with a touch less of the herby "darrigues" character so noticeable in Gigondas. Everyone loved the earthy lunch we shared at Ferme Auberge de L'Houmet, a literal farm operation serving meats and vegetables raised or grown on site. More wine growers joined us at 'le Ferme', Domaine Fondreche (Cote de Ventoux) and Domaine Beaumalric (Beaumes de Venise). Try the '98 Domaine Fondreche Cote de Ventoux Rouge...you'll be blown away by its depth and overall richness for such an affordable price!
On the road again the next morning still heading northwards, our first appointment is with Domaine Louis Belle in Crozes-Hermitage. Here the white wines are a blend of Marsanne and Roussane and the red wines are 100% Syrah. Proprietors Philippe and Albert also make the king of the world's Syrah wines from the tiny appellation of Hermitage. All these wines need more time to develop but were showing wonderful promise of future delights.
Enjoying lunch at the picturesque Restaurant Jean Paret snuggled up against the hillside of Condrieu was a welcome way to enjoy more northern Rhone wine specialties from several local producers, including Domaine Alain Paret (Condrieu), Domaine Pascal Perrier (St. Joseph), and Domaine Stephane Cornu (Crozes-Hermitage). The meal of quenelles of Pike with cream of shellfish followed by veal in a light cream sauce was exquisitely filling.
Our next winery visit was delayed by a lingering stop in Tain-Hermitage to visit the famous Valrhona chocolate factory. We finally pulled ourselves away from these delectable dainties to spend some more 'serious' time tasting the magnificent Cote-Rotie (Syrah) wines of Michel Ogier and Domaine Jamet. Ogier's wines are more 'backward', rustic in style, whereas Jamet's wines seemed more immediately quaffable. Of particular note was Ogier's declassified Cote-Rotie wine called La Rosienne...a fine bargain at a fraction of Cote-Rotie's normally astronomic prices!
Dinner took the form of an impromptu birthday celebration in the Pouilly-Fuisse cellars of Domaine Thibert-Parisse for winemaker/owner Christophe Thibert. Over charcuterie, finger sandwiches, and cheese our group enjoyed Thibert's outstanding range of Chardonnay-based Macon wines, including his Macon-Prisse, Pouilly-Vinzelles, and Pouilly-Fuisse. Also, Jean Marc Bougaud served his deep-flavored '99 Morgon Vieille Vignes (Gamay Noir) from the neighboring district of Beaujolais, and we finished the evening with the exotic Chenin Blanc dessert wines of Rene Renou of Domaine Bonnezeaux on the Loire River. The 'Tri de Vendanges' and 'Cuvee Zenith' aren't cheap but their nectar-like flavors are well worth the effort to seek out a bottle for a special meal-ending wine specialty.
Having crossed over from the northern Cotes du Rhone into Burgundy with our visit to Fuisse, the Kacher group was primed for more. The next morning, after a brief overnight at the Hotel Mercure in Macon (channel 10 is definitely not for anyone under the age of 18!), we stopped by the cellars of Jean-Marc Joblot in the Cote Chalonnaise town of Givry. Jean Marc prefers his '99s to his '98s and indeed the crunchy berry-fruit richness of the '99 Pinot Noirs (Givry Villages, Savoisenne, and Cellier aux Moines) was already a joy to sip, but Joblot has also made some fine '98s.
On now to the sleepy little town of Chassagne in Burgundy's famous Cote de Beaune where the world's most expensive Chardonnay wines are produced (Le Montrachet, Chevalier Montrachet, etc.). The only restaurant in town, Le Chassagne, is owned by a group of wine producers, including Marc Morey, our host for lunch. And what a lunch! Escargot, followed by crawfish with roast leeks, then chicken breast en croute. By the time of the cheese course, we were in heaven. Let's not forget the wines: monumental Chassagne Montrachets from Premier Cru vineyards such as Les Chenevottes, Virondeaux, Caillerets, and Morgeot. Oo la la!!
Satiated, but not done yet, we soon pulled into the nearby Volnay estate of Domaine Rossignol where we tried a '98 Meursault plus a range of Volnay and Pommard Premiers Crus. These wines are superbly-balanced and quite affordable when compared with the more pricey Cote de Nuits Burgundies to the north of this district. Checking into the Hotel La Closerie in Beaune for the evening, everyone fortified themselves literally (with the Kacher Calvadoes apple brandies of Etienne Dupont) and settled down for a long night. Most of our group stayed up to see St. Louis squeak by Tennessee in the Super Bowl.
OK, by now you know we're a bit road-weary, and late night NFL football (the game was over at around 3:30 a.m. local time!) didn't help matters much, but by 10 the next morning we were entering the beautiful grounds of the Domaine de Chateau du Puligny Montrachet for yet another round of extraordinary wines. This domaine produces a wide variety of high-quality white Burgundies, including a not-so-simple Bourgogne called 'Clos du Chateau', Village and Premier Cru level Meursault, St. Aubin, Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet, and the little-known Monthelie. We took these wines with us to a tasty luncheon in a cozy renovated barn on the property.
Leaving the Puligny district for neighboring Volnay once again, we taste the wide range of wines made by Henri Boillot and Jean Boillot (father & son, separate labels). Here we tried 'serious' Meursault and Puligny Montrachet whites, including the wonderful '98 La Moucheres Premier Cru, followed by a number of Beaune and Volnay Premiers Crus. The '98 Volnay Chevriets could pass for the glorious wines of Echezeaux in my book! All the reds were almost opaque in color from their extended maceration time.
In the town of Ladoix up the road from Volnay, but now in the hallowed environs of Burgundy's Cotes de Nuits, we visit Domaine Jayer-Gilles, an owner of an important parcel in the aforementioned tiny Echezeaux Grand Cru vineyard. We taste Gilles' tart Aligote (a rare Burgundian white varietal) followed by a fine array of simple Cotes de Nuits reds and finish with his Nuits St. Georges Premiers Crus and the monumental '98 Echezeaux. It doesn't get much better than this folks! Dinner and story-telling at Restaurant La Miotte ended this glorious day in Burgundy.
Our final day in this vinous heartland took us to the Cotes de Nuits village of Gevry where Napoleon's favorite Chambertin Grand Cru is still produced. We spend time in the cellars of Domaine Serafin tasting several village-level and Premiers Crus- level Gevry-Chambertin, including the astounding '98 Gevry-Chambertin Les Cazetaires and the '98 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru. They are definitely worth the $100+ price!
Down the street, we meet with another Gevry-Chambertin producer, Claude Dugat, who gladly greets us with a whole host of fine village-level, Premiers Crus and Grands Crus Gevry-Chambertin wines. I particularly fancied the '98 Lavaux Premier Cru with its deep fruit and smoky/savory edge. A multi-course lunch was served in an old church house in town where we contemplated further the wines of Dugat, Serafin, and the 'good life'!
All good things must come to an end, and so it was with our brief sojourn in Burgundy. But we definitely ended our time with a bang in the cellars of Hubert Chauvenet in Nuits St. Georges. There we were treated to a royal send-off by tasting the top Burgundies of four regional producers: Chauvenet-Chopin, Jean-Jacques Confuron, Domaine Lechenaut, and Domaine Ambroise. My tasting notes would fill several more pages, so I'll just tell you that all the wines fit in my 'best of Burgundy' category, and leave it at that!
The trip back to Paris and the flight back to the USA are a blur in my memory now...what lingers most are the wonderful memories of the host of French folks we met who labor tirelessly in their vineyards to bring their gems of vinous pleasure to our tables. Their welcoming spirit was most appreciated, their wines are impeccable, and we are better off by far for having spent this brief time in their world. Thank you, mon amis! Thank you Bobby!
Donald W. White
Go to Home page